22 points submitted 21 days ago
After a comment on the moncler outlet Shell Cordovan Dayton that I buy 2018 Moncler jackets moncler jackets made yesterday around being careful with the moncler outlet online finishing of the Rocado Shell Cordovan, I decided to do an official informational “test”.
How different tanneries leather handles water goes back to the actual tanning process utilized cheap moncler by the tannery. All tanneries are pretty secretive with their tanning methods (beyond the general tanning process which I included below which is an excerpt from my website from when I visited Horween), so getting into specifics of what one tannery does better than another will likely cheap moncler coats always be a mystery.
For this particular “test” (by no means was it scientific), I drew a line down the center of each strip and dropped water on the top half and let it sit for 5 minutes before wiping it off and brushing with a horsehair brush. I let them dry for about an hour before taking additional photos of all the before pictures.
Shinki Hikaku did okay in terms of handling the water. Rocado cheap moncler jackets old formula did very poorly and their new formula did slightly better. Horween performed the best cheap moncler outlet by far.
My final thoughts on the overall test are.
Horween knows what they are doing and have been doing it for a long time. They are a master of their crafts and there is a reason other tanneries attempt to emulate them.
Be cautious buying footwear from any shoemaker who may not necessarily have the knowledge on finishing. Meermin has used Rocado at various points and I suspect they are doing some additional finishing/protecting on their end to ensure their shoes handle water much better than leaving it alone.
Bonus edit for clarification: I don baby my shell footwear in the slightest. I think shell is one of the tougher leathers around and it deserves to have the crap beat out of it. I wear shell in the rain. I wear shell on walks with my dog through muddy streets. I wear shell anywhere and everywhere and it does just fine.
I no /u/rydor wearing my shell Vibergs in my flooded basement. but I a step below that.
My post was meant to be more informational and not a statement saying shell should be babied. I think shell can take anything you throw at it and looks better as it is beat up and aged. Water spots and all (which honestly just end up vanishing with the rest of the wonderful marks on your boots if you actually wear them).
My post is moncler sale outlet also not a meant to be a cautionary tale to explicitly avoid certain makers or tanneries, rather a simple observation on how shell handles water direct from the tannery.
Horween Tanning Process for Shell Cordovan
The 6 month process from raw, unprocessed hide to finished shell cordovan is anything but simple. Spending some time at the Horween tannery in Chicago allowed me to have a better understanding and appreciation for the time and skilled required to create this fantastic leather. There is certainly a reason that not every tannery attempts to replicate Horween’s original process.
The process starts cheap moncler sale when the horsehides are brought into the lower level of the tannery on pallets in a raw, cured state. Hides are then inspected and any unwanted areas https://www.mymoncleroutlet.com trimmed. Though the hides themselves have been salted to prevent decay and deterioration, they still have an organic smell to them.
The full horsehides are then loaded into mixers to remove any hair on the hides. The hides then undergo a process to remove any remaining flesh left on the hides.
The horsehides are then cut into two separate pieces where they will continue on to their own moncler mens jackets separate moncler sale tanning processes. The double horse front and the moncler outlet sale horse butt. The horse fronts can be tanned and turned into any of Horween’s tannages (Chromexcel, Latigo, etc.) and the horse butts end up being cut into horse strips and the shell cordovan.
Once the hide is separated into the two pieces, the horse butts, which will soon become the shell cordovan, are moncler outlet store then tanned in the vegetable tanning pits for 60 days.
The horse butts are removed from the tanning pits and then shaved to further expose the fibrous flat muscle area. The horse strip (also known as “North of Cordovan”) is then trimmed off of the horse butt which can then be tanned in a separate process.
Once out of the pits, the shell cordovan receives its first application of the special blend of greases and oils. The shells then take up to a week to dry depending on the overall temperature and humidity within the tannery.
Once fully dried, the shell is hand oiled and curried and then sits in stacks for 90 days to age the leather, which provides the smooth shell surface.
The aniline dye is applied by hand to color the shell cordovan while still leaving some of its natural characteristics visible.
After hand applying the dye, the shells are then glazed with an old fashioned glazing jack which quickly rubs a glass rod back and forth on the hide to give it a polished look. Alternately, this step can be skipped for an “unglazed” look which leaves the shell with more of a matte look versus glossy.
The shells are then graded by area that is considered “cuttable”. The grade applied to a particular shell is not indicative of the quality, but rather the size.
zlj2011 2 points submitted 22 days ago
Ok, thanks for clarifying. So the unglazed shell boots from Viberg Rider are presumably not Rocado. Since I know you likely know the answer; just out of curiosity, I guessing there must be some other treatment difference in the tanning that causes Rocado shell to act differently from other makers. I know there are differences in this regard with the glazed shell also but it sounds monlcer down jackets like there are also differences in the unglazed shell. Didn realize that but good to know.